Bathymetry

Many early ocean models had a quiescent, or inactive bottom layer, and didn't use bathymetry at all. Now most ocean circulation models do include bathymetry, although some models that we will discuss - notably the upper ocean models like TOPS do not use bathymetry.

Why Bathymetry?

How is it defined?

Ocean models use metric units for depth - either meters or kilometers; however, the Navy also commonly uses feet and fathoms.

To become familiar with converting meters to feet and fathoms and vice versa, use the units conversion calculator, and enter your answers in the blank spaces below.

15 meters = feet fathoms
22 feet = meters fathoms
1.5 fathoms = feet meters

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Where does the data come from?

  • Long rope (ancient times - near shore)

  • Echo sounders
    from shipboard measurements
    took a long time to acquire data for large areas, since only the depth below the ship's track was known.
    Multibeam arrays produce swaths of soundings along the ship's path. Modern systems can map swaths with widths up to several times the water depth.

  • Satellite altimetry
    Satellites that can measure the distance to the earth's surface are used to map the earth's topography. The ocean's surface takes on the shape of the landforms beneath it. This is because variations in mass cause variations in the gravitational attraction of the water, causing bumps in the ocean surface. For example, a seamount would have a higher mass, and cause additional water to mound up above it. The differences in sea level can be 10's of centimeters to 10's of meters.

    While these techniques have resulted in a more complete picture of the earth's geoid, the resulting bathymetry may not be spatially dense enough for some finer-scale regional models.
    Sample 2 minute bathymetry from NOAA. (Opens in new window)

    For more information, go to http://topex.ucsd.edu/marine_topo_mar_topo.html
side scan sonar
Image courtesy of NOAA

What are the databases called?

How do different models define/use it?

To incorporate bathymetric data in a model, the bathymetry must be matched to the model's grid. In very fine scale models, such as coastal or turbulence models, the known bathymetry might need to be interpolated to the model gridpoints. However, in the global and regional models we'll be discussing later, the known bathymetry is finer than the model grid. For these models, the bathymetry data may need to be smoothed before it is put on the model grid. If it is not smoothed in these cases, the model becomes unstable and produces unrealistic numbers and will cease to run. Some manual adjustment to the bathymetry may also be necessary before it can be used in an ocean model. Because of the numerical method used to solve the equations of motion (flow), there is a requirement that there be two grid points at which density is defined to determine the value of velocity between these two points. This means, for example, a canyon must be at least two grid points wide.

As an example, compare the real bathymetry with the bathymetry used in a 0.1omodel and a 0.25o model for either the Gulf of Mexico or southern Florida and Cuba.

When is bottom depth NOT a fixed quantity in a model?

In coastal problems involving sediment transport. When wave models get coupled with coastal circulation and sediment transport models, this will become an issue.

The Navy, and in particular, NAVO, spends considerable effort on obtaining accurate bathymetry, including in data poor areas. We have introduced the subject in only the most cursory fashion here, as NAVO offers extensive training in hydrographic science through other channels.


The model's all set to go. But wait, an ocean at rest will remain at rest. So.... we need to give it a push. This is called "forcing" a model, the subject of the next session.