Dynamics of Steep Beaches

Assoc. Res. Prof. Tim. Stanton, stanton@nps.edu
Ocean Turbulence Lab, Room 329

The ONR-sponsored Steep Beach Experiment deployed in Monterey Bay during April / May 2001 provides a unique data set to study the dynamics of a steep beach, where shore-reflected wave energy strongly modifies wave breaking and bottom boundary layer processes. An instrumented verical array with 8 current sensors, 12 conductivity / void fraction sensors and wave height sensors was placed in the surf zone for a 4 week period. An adjacent instrument frame supported unique instruments which measured the bottom boundary layer turbulence, sediment suspension and transport, and bed morhpology.

Thesis topics from this project include:

- Affects of reflected waves and bores on the turbulent boundary layer and resulting bedforms

- Modification of wave breaking and water column turbulence by reflected bores in the surf zone


Last Reviewed: February 2003
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