A comprehensive field experiment to study rip currents and wave transformation over a steep beach was conducted at Sand City, California in Monterey Bay. After two weeks of installing instruments, measurements started 13 April 2001. The measurements continued until 23 May. The objectives of the experiment were to measure wave transformation, currents, sediment transport, and morphologic changes on steep beach and with a rip system. The profile at Sand City is barred with highly reflective beach slope of 1:5. The alongshore bar is deeply cut by quasi-periodic rip channels through which the rip currents flow. Click below to explore various aspects of the experiment.

[Photograph of experiment site for RIPEX at Sand City, California. Rip currents are clearly visible owing to quasi-periodic holes (approximately 100 m apart) in the alongshore bar. ]