The ONR-sponsored Steep Beach Experiment deployed in Monterey Bay during April / May 2001 provides a unique data set to study the dynamics of a steep beach, where shore-reflected wave energy strongly modifies wave breaking and bottom boundary layer processes. An instrumented verical array with 8 current sensors, 12 conductivity / void fraction sensors and wave height sensors was placed in the surf zone for a 4 week period. An adjacent instrument frame supported unique instruments which measured the bottom boundary layer turbulence, sediment suspension and transport, and bed morhpology.
Thesis topics from this project include:
- Affects of reflected waves and bores on the turbulent boundary layer and resulting bedforms
- Modification of wave breaking and water column turbulence by reflected bores in the surf zone
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views of the Department of the Navy or the Department of Defense.
Last Reviewed: February 2003
stanton@nps.edu
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